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Lawn Care Program Image

Sowing Grass Seed - Best Practices

  • For renovations that are needed due to an abundance of weeds, apply non-selective chemicals such as glyphosate in advance of planting to control existing vegetation.
  • When possible, completely till the soil to a four- to six-inch depth prior to seeding.
  • If soil tests indicate lime or other nutrients are needed, apply them prior to tilling in order to incorporate the material into the profile.
  • Apply a starter fertilizer emphasizing phosphorus (P) levels as compared to nitrogen (N). These products will have typical nutrient ratios of N-P-K (potassium) of 1:2:1 or 1:2:2. It is equally important to provide some degree of soil preparation even for inter-seeding situations into existing turf.
  • A few passes with a coring machine (aerifier), a power rake, or a vertical mower (dethatcher) can be used to prep the soil prior to planting to encourage seed-to-soil contact.
  • Simply applying seed over the top of an existing turf without any soil preparation usually does nothing more than feed birds and other wildlife.
  • Good soil to seed contact is very important but do not want to bury the seed. Lightly rake or drag the seed in to maximize seedling establishment.
  • Some tillage also is required for the successful establishment of sod (either warm- or cool-season grasses), sprigs (shredded sod), or plugs.

Feeding Your Lawn - Best Practices

  • Fall is the most ideal time to fertilize a cool season lawn.
  • Cool season lawns prefer to receive 2/3rds of their annual nitrogen requirements during the cool fall months. 
  • A light application consisting of .5lb of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet, preferably with a slow-release fertilizer, is applied in March to help initiate spring growth.  This is often done with a combination product that contains a pre-emergent herbicide aka. crabgrass preventer.
  • Summer applications of organic fertilizers can be made to help maintain optimal color without risk of burning the lawn. 
  • Starter fertilizers that are high in phosphorus are only applied at time of seeding or sod establishment unless otherwise noted by soil test results. 
  • After over-seeding a lawn in the fall, a high nitrogen maintenance fertilizer is applied 4-6 weeks later, with another round known as a winterizer 4-6 weeks after the maintenance round. 
  • Apply other supplemental nutrients (for instance, phosphorus or potassium) and lime according to soil-test results.
  • Do not apply fertilizers to frozen ground.

Watering - Do's & Don't's for Your Lawn

  • Initial irrigation
    • After planting the seed, irrigate lightly and frequently until seed germination is complete.
    • Avoid excessive amounts of water because this could wash away or drown the seed. As establishment progresses, gradually cut back on the amount of water applied in order to start promoting a deep root system.
    • The irrigation philosophy is similar for sod establishment, but larger amounts of water can be applied to sod less frequently because these plant materials have soil and some root mass intact. 
  • After Establishment
    • Depending on conditions the yard will require watering throughout the summer.  To maintain a lush, perfect lawn throughout the heat of summer watering beyond that provided by Mother Nature will be required.
    • When growing, supplement rainfall as needed so that the lawn receives1 inch of water a week. A bluish-gray appearance or wilted, folded, or curled leaves may indicate that it is time to water
    • It is best to water your lawn in the early hours of the day, anywhere from 4 AM to 12 PM. The cooler night and morning temperatures reduce evaporative loss and reduce the amount of water needed.  
    • Additionally, following this schedule reduces the fungus pressure on your lawn by allowing the turf to dry in the afternoon. 
    • Even though in winter you won’t have to water much, make sure the soil doesn’t get powder dry.

Selection - Warm Season Grasses

  • The primary warm-season species include: Bermudagrass and Zoysiagrass, Centipedegrass and St. Augustinegrass.
  • Monostands (single cultivars) are recommended for warm-season turfgrasses in almost all situations.
  • Choose these grasses according to climate, the lawn site, and the level of maintenance you desire.
  • A lawn is something you expect to have indefinitely, so a commitment to choosing the best possible grass goes far towards long-term success.

Establishment - Best Time to Sow

  • Late-summer through mid/late fall is the optimum time to plant cool-season grasses.
  • Soil temperatures are suitable for planting in spring as well, but the turf is less likely to mature satisfactorily to ensure summer survival following a spring planting date.
  • Cool season grass such as fescue, germinate best when the soil temperatures are between 50° and 65°F. 

Mowing - "Rules of the Road"

  • Mow turf when it needs to be clipped according to its recommended cutting height and follow the one-third mowing rule that says you should never remove more than one-third of the leaf blade at any mowing event.
  • For example, if the current height of a Zoysiagrass lawn is one and one-half inches, mow the turf no lower than one inch.
  • Regular mowing at the low end of the recommended range for the respective grasses encourages lateral growth.
  • Be sure your mower blade is sharp, properly balanced, and that your soil surface is sufficiently firm so you do not cause ruts or footprints on the surface.

Core Aeration & De-thatching - Why and When

  • Core cultivation
    • Core aeration (commonly called "plugging") is the typical type of cultivation done on home lawns to relieve soil compaction.
    • Aeration on warm-season grasses should be done when the turf is actively growing and not during the spring transition period. It can be done anytime from mid-spring through mid-summer as long as the soil is sufficiently moist to allow for tine penetration.
    • Core aeration is very disruptive to surface smoothness, but it is the best way to relieve the physical limitations of soil compaction and improve soil oxygen levels.
    • To encourage turf recovery, use an aggressive fertility and irrigation program to restore turf density to its desired level after core aeration during the growing season.
    • Spring cultivation can disrupt weed control if you applied a pre-emergent herbicide. If possible, avoid aerating until four to six weeks after the herbicide application to keep from breaking the desired chemical barrier in the soil.
    • Ideally, core aeration of warm-season grasses should not take place until after complete greening of the turf. An actively growing grass is better able to quickly recover from the cultivation event later in the year.
  • Vertical mowing
    • Perform vertical mowing, i.e., de-thatching as needed on warm-season grasses during the primary growing months of summer.
    • The key words here are "as needed" - its effects are very disruptive to the turf and detract from a lawn's appearance.
    • One of the primary reasons for vertical mowing is thatch removal. Thatch, a layer predominantly comprised of undecomposed stems, signals an imbalance between the biomass that the turf is producing and how fast it can be decomposed.
    • Leaf clippings are not a significant component of thatch, so it is still wise to return clippings to the turf rather than bagging them.
    • Roots residing in thatch layers that are more than one-half inch in depth will quickly suffer from moisture stress during the summer months.
    • Plus, the thatch layer is a haven for many insect pests and fungal spores that can incite disease.
    • Vertical mowing physically removes thatch. Expect significant turf thinning due to the process. Once vertical mowing is complete, remove the thatch and other debris that has been brought to the surface by raking or sweeping.
    • Note that many of the stems that have been brought to the surface can actually be used as planting material, i.e. sprigs, in other areas of the lawn. You can vertically mow warm-season turfgrasses from late spring through mid-summer when the turf can quickly recover by way of proper fertility and irrigation applications.
    • Avoid this cultivation in late summer and fall because there is insufficient turf recovery time prior to winter dormancy.
    • Vertical mowing is not a tool to improve soil aeration, and you should use it only when needed for thatch removal or in the preparation of a seedbed.

Controlling Pre & Post-Emergent Weeds in the Lawn

  • Pre-emergent weed control in established turf
    • Summer annual grasses (crabgrass, goosegrass, foxtail, etc.) are the most common targets for pre-emergent herbicide treatment in the spring but many other grass and broadleaf weeds also germinate as soil temperatures warm and days grow longer.
    • The rapid growth potential of these summer annual weeds warrants the use of pre-emergent herbicides to prevent weed germination and the subsequent reduction in turfgrass quality. 
    • The key to the effectiveness of pre-emergent herbicides is timing the applications to before the weeds emerge. 
    • Mother Nature provides reminders for proper pre-emergent herbicide treatment timing in the form of the following ornamental plants: daffodils, forsythia, and dogwoods. 
    • Forsythia and daffodils bloom early in this window of application, and dogwoods bloom at the end of the recommended application period.   In addition to applications of herbicides alone, many formulations of "weed-and-feed" materials (products with a pre-emergent herbicide impregnated on a fertilizer carrier) are popular in spring lawn applications. Simply check the product bag for the common chemical names. These products are well suited for established cool-season turfgrass in spring. 
    • It is necessary for all pre-emergent herbicides to be watered in soon after application to the turf surface.
    • Tenacity herbicide can be applied just before or at seeding of fescue for crabgrass control. After seedling emergence, post-emergent herbicides such as the aforementioned Tenacity Herbicide can be applied after the newly planted turfgrass has been mowed 3-4 times and is well established. 
    • You must follow label directions very carefully in order to maximize crabgrass control without damaging or killing turf seedlings.
  • Post-emergent crabgrass control in late spring and summer. 
    • Quinclorac is an early post-emergent crabgrass herbicide with excellent efficacy on summer annual grassy weeds.
    • As a post-emergent herbicide, Quinclorac requires an adjuvant such as crop-oil concentrate or methylated seed oil to maximize effectiveness. 
  • Spring and summer broadleaf weed control.
    • In mature turf, applications of broadleaf herbicides can usually be made as soon as temperatures warm such that the weed is actively growing.
    • Controlling weeds before they flower in the early spring is an excellent way to prevent them from completing their life cycle and producing seed. 
    • As temperatures warm, the use of many broadleaf herbicides require extra caution because of the potential for damage to the turf and other desirable landscape and garden plants. 
    • Pay careful attention to environmental conditions such as wind and relative humidity in the summer because of the potential for off-site movement onto desirable plants.
    • Spot treating of winter weeds can be done throughout the late fall and winter on occasional days that rise near 50-60 degrees.  
  • Control of Sedges
    • Sedges can be distinguished from grasses by their distinctive triangular stem.
    • Sedges are highly competitive in poorly drained soils, but they can be a problem anywhere in the landscape. 
    • There are both annual and perennial sedges, but the primary sedge of importance is the perennial yellow nutsedge. 
    • Halosulfuron controls more species of sedge than any other herbicide available for use in warm-season turf lawns. 
    • This herbicide should be applied to young sedge and at least two to three treatments are needed for complete control. Treat sedges when they are actively growing in late spring through summer.

Disease Prevention in Cool Season Grasses

  • Diseases on cool-season grasses can be more severe than on warm-season grasses. This is due primarily to the seasonal stress on the plants during the disease development period.
  • The fungi that cause the most severe diseases in turf are active during the warm, summer months. This is also the time when cool-season grasses are under stress; therefore, they are less able to tolerate disease. 
  • It is very important to know that you actually have a fungal-incited disease before planning a treatment program. One of the most common "diseases" in the lawn is caused by dull mower blades.
  • While the control recommendations for each disease can vary, there are several cultural strategies that can reduce the severity of most diseases. 
  • Minimizing the duration of leaf wetness will decrease the chances of most diseases developing. 
  • Modify irrigation schedules and air circulation. Set irrigation to run in the early morning hours with the cycle being completed around sunrise. In areas with poor air circulation, thin and "limb-up" surrounding trees. The increased circulation and decreased shade will result in more rapid drying of the turf.
  • Another strategy to reduce disease pressure, as discussed above, is thatch management.
  • High levels of nitrogen may increase the severity of disease.
  • Areas with poor air circulation have more turf diseases. Strategic pruning of trees and shrubs is a good way to improve air movement and allow additional sunlight into trouble areas.
  • There are many fungicides on the market today that are highly effective at preventing and controlling most commonly occurring diseases in the cool-season home lawn. 

Fungal Diseases - Combating Them in the Lawn

  • Brown Patch
    • Brown patch affects all commonly cultivated cool-season turfgrasses. However, cultivars differ in susceptibility. Tall fescue, Kentucky bluegrass and perennial rye are the primary turfgrass hosts. The causal agent of brown patch is Rhizoctonia solani.
    • Symptoms 
      • Look for circular patches of dead and dying grass. They may encompass large portions of the turf. The turf in these patches appears “sunken.”
      • The center of diseased patches may appear less affected, and it may show the frog-eye symptoms commonly associated with summer patch. However, look for the characteristic brown-patch leaf spot on individual blades. It will distinguish brown patch from summer patch. Also, brown-patch-affected turf appears less matted.
    • Look at green plants within the affected turf. A dark-brown margin will surround long, irregularly shaped grayish-colored leaf spots. Your diagnosis should include not only the characteristic leaf-spot symptoms but also gross symptomatology of the affected turf. If you are having diagnosis troubles, contact a plant disease diagnostic laboratory. They will isolate and culture the pathogen to determine the species.
    • Factors favoring brown patch. Look for brown patch in dense, heavily fertilized, irrigated turf during hot (above 85°F), humid weather when nighttime temperatures remain above 60°F. When diagnosing, look for poorly drained soils and thick thatch.
    • These factors contribute to brown-patch incidence. Leaf wetness contributes to disease formation and high levels of nitrogen and low levels of phosphorus or potassium may cause increased disease severity.
    • Also, if your mower blades are dull, you may be contributing to the incidence of this disease. Dull blades fray grass tips, causing excessive wounding and enhancing infection.
    • Managing Brown Patch
      • To prevent brown patch, avoid high nitrogen application rates during the summer. The nitrogen stimulates lush growth that is more susceptible to brown patch.
      • Avoid watering practices that keep the turf wet for more than 6 hours. Irrigate in the early morning so that the leaf blades dry quickly. Also, aerify and de-thatch to keep thatch to less than 0.5 inch.
      • Plant or overseed with resistant cultivars — contact your seed distributor for more information.
      • Begin fungicide treatments when symptoms first appear. Rescue or curative treatments often fail, so you must monitor your sites for early diagnosis. If you manage your turf properly, it can recover quickly from brown patch.
  • Summer patch
    • Summer patch is one of the most destructive diseases of Kentucky bluegrass. The causal agent of summer patch, the soil-borne fungus, Magnaporthe poae, infects the plant roots. Therefore, early diagnosis can be difficult.
    • Symptoms
    • Begin monitoring early in the season as soil temperatures reach the low 60s. Look for scattered plants or patches of bluish-green, wilted plants. Summer patch damages the roots and causes the plants to succumb to drought stresses. Because the fungus is underground, it often goes undetected until the plants begin to die.
    • Monitor sites prone to heat stress. Southerly-exposed slopes or turf near concrete driveways will be the first to exhibit moisture stress. Look for 6- to 20-inch circular, semi-circular or serpentine patches. They will give the area a pockmarked or doughnut appearance. Look for matted light-tan, dead turf. Also, look for a tuft of green grass in the center (the “frog-eye” pattern). The leading edge of an affected area usually shows the most characteristic “frog-eye” symptoms. Plants at the edge of the patches will appear unhealthy. Dig up some roots. If you see roots that are dark and partially rotted, the plant is infected,
    • Factors favoring summer patch. Look for summer patch from mid-June through September. You may not see symptoms during cool periods when moisture stress is not exhibited, but the symptoms will reappear when hot weather returns. You usually will see summer patch break out during hot, dry weather after a wet period. The fungus is most active in irrigated turf or when frequent rains occur.
    • Other factors that favor summer patch include heavy thatch, low mowing, unbalanced fertility, improper irrigation, and compaction, sites exposed to heat, steep slopes and poorly adapted grass varieties.
    • Managing summer patch
    • Eliminate plant stress during the summer. It may be the most important factor affecting symptom development. Avoid management practices that promote rapid top growth at the expense of root development. Integrate good cultural practices with fungicide.
  • Dollar Spot
    • Managing dollar spot 
    • To prevent dollar spot with minimal fungicide applications, properly fertilize to ensure vigorous growth. Also, irrigate during morning hours only.  Aerify to control thatch and to reduce compaction. To hasten recovery, implement practices that promote vigorous, but not lush, growth and reduce plant stress. If necessary, make fungicide applications when symptoms first appear.
  • Leaf spot and Melting Out
    • Twenty-five years ago, leaf spot and melting out were the most serious diseases of Kentucky bluegrass turfs. Thankfully, researchers have developed resistant, improved cultivars, and these diseases are no longer as important as they once were. The leaf spot pathogen, Bipolaris sorokiniana, attacks bluegrass, bentgrass, ryegrass and fescue. Melting out, caused by Drechslera poae, is mainly a disease of Kentucky bluegrass. However, it also occurs on ryegrasses and fescues.
    • Symptoms
    • You will see two phases of leaf-spot symptom development. They correspond with changing temperatures during the growing season.
    • Look for the leaf-spot stage when temperatures are between 70° and 85°F. When temperatures are above 85°F, look for necrosis of the entire leaf blade and the resulting leaf blight.
    • On Kentucky bluegrass and fine and tall fescues, you will first see small, dark-purple to black spots on the leaf blade. As the black spots age, you will see them as round to oval spots that have buff-colored centers. 
    • These lesions are surrounded by a dark-brown to dark-purple margin, and they may merge and girdle the leaf blade. You will see the blade turn yellow or reddish-brown and die back from the tip. When leaf blighting progresses, the turf will fade to a brownish color.
    • During hot, humid weather, leaf sheaths, crowns and roots become infected. This causes thin, open areas in the turf. Plants with severe crown and root rot usually die from drought stress.
    • The leaf spot symptoms of melting out (D. poae) on Kentucky bluegrass are nearly identical to those of leaf spot caused by B. sorokiniana. You will first see the symptoms appear on the leaf blades as small dark lesions that develop into oval spots with buff centers and dark purplish-black margins.
    • Once the fungus colonizes the leaf sheath, you will see the leaf turn yellow and then tan. Eventually the leaf drops from the plant. This stage is known as melting out. As with the leaf-spot disease, you will notice the symptoms progress from leaf spotting through melting out. Eventually, the crowns and roots rot. Ultimately, you will see the affected areas become brown and thin.
    • Factors favoring leaf spot and melting out. Look for both diseases during dry periods following prolonged cloudy, wet weather. Leaf spot is most active when temperatures are between 70° and 85°F. The optimum temperatures for melting out are 65° to 75°F.
  • Managing Leaf Spot and Melting Out.
    • Use a combination of improved cultivars, good turfgrass management practices and fungicide applications for the most effective control. Use improved, disease-resistant cultivars when establishing or renovating turf.
    • Assess your fertilization program, and incorporate a program that does not stimulate lush growth. Manage your thatch and irrigate in the morning.
    • Adjust mowing frequency to correspond with the growth of the grass.
    • When necessary, apply a fungicide in April followed by two or three additional applications spaced 3 to 4 weeks apart or as label directions dictate.
  • Powdery Mildew
    • Managing powdery mildew
    • Selectively prune shade trees to increase light penetration and improve air movement. This will lower humidity in the grass canopy.
    • In shade areas, use resistant cultivars of Kentucky bluegrass and fine-leaved fescue.
    • Use fungicides to treat severe outbreaks or turf that has persistent mildew problems. Make one or two applications in spring, late summer or autumn or as label directions state.

Grub & Insect Control

  • Grub worms, chinch bugs, and caterpillars such as webworms can all cause significant damage if their numbers are high enough and the turf is under stress.
  • As for diseases, proper identification of the pest and an understanding of where the pest is feeding (above ground or below ground) are necessary to maximize control. 
  • If you suspect an insect is feeding on your turf, a soap flush is an excellent way to identify above ground pests. Simply remove both ends of a large coffee can and drive the cylinder into the soil at least an inch deep.
  • Fill the can half way with a soapy-water solution and watch for the pests to float to the surface. 
  • The most significant insect pest most often is the white grub. When disturbed in the soil, the grub will curl into a "C" shape and lay motionless for a brief period. 
  • White grubs are the larval stages of several different beetles, and they come in many different sizes ranging from less than one-quarter inch in length for grubs of the Black Turfgrass Aetinius to over one inch in length for the grubs of the Green June beetle. 
  • Grubs feed on turfgrass roots with chewing mouthparts. Because of the damage to the roots, the most noticeable symptom is wilting turf during dry periods.
  • Overwintering grubs burrow several inches in the soil to survive the cold and then begin to migrate to the surface as the soil temperatures warm in the spring, all the while feeding on plant roots. 
  • By late spring they will reach their maximum size as worms before they go through their final metamorphosis from grub to beetle. 
  • Due to their size, chemical control is very difficult at this time. As the adults emerge, they are going to emphasize mating in order to set the stage for next season's grubs, and a few of the beetles can be a major problem on other landscape plants. 
  • From a turfgrass perspective, this is still not the appropriate time to chemically treat the beetles. This should be done in mid-July through mid-August after the recently laid eggs have hatched and the immature grubs are very small and near the soil surface. Based on the location of feeding,chemicals must be watered into the soil according to label directions in order to be effective.
  • Any insecticide application should be carefully considered before treatment because of the potential for killing non-target, beneficial insects. In particular, it is not always necessary to treat for grubs. If only a few are present, their damage to turf is negligible. 
  • Scout the turf using a shovel to lift the sod in a one-square foot area if you suspect grubs might be causing damage. Numbers of six to ten grubs per square foot justify treatment for most species. However, just because you see a few grubs when digging in the lawn and garden in the spring does not mean that you should apply chemicals. Grub damage will be associated with moisture-stressed (i.e. wilted) turf that simply does not respond quickly to irrigation or rainfall events because its root system has been attacked. 
  • Warm-season turfgrasses usually grow so quickly that they can withstand grub attacks, and you never see signs of wilt. Another likely sign that you have a grub problem is if you observe lawn damage by burrowing animals (especially skunks) that feed on grubs. As mentioned above, be sure to scout the soil to identify the problem before you make a broad-spectrum chemical application.
  • Chinch bugs feed on above ground stems with piercing and sucking mouthparts. They are gold and black in color and are typically one-quarter inch in length. Damage can be significant when 15 to 20 insects per square foot are observed from a soapy-water flush. Both immature and adult chinch bugs feed on grasses, usually feeding on the stems under the protection of the leaf sheaths.  
  • Since chinch bugs feed above ground, foliar applications of insecticides are recommended and irrigation or rainfall immediately after the application is undesirable.

groSMART Seed - Benefits to the Homeowner

  • Tolerates heat well.
  • Drought tolerant.
  • Fast establishment time.
  • High disease and insect resistance.
  • Survives in a variety of soils from sandy to clays.
  • Grows well on infertile, dry soils - Good drought resistant qualities.
  • Withstands traffic wear - Can be mowed low.
  • Aggressive growth chokes out weeds.
  • With proper care & fertilizer, creates a dense green lawn.

groSMART Grass Seed - Proven Technology

  • Industry leading - Only professional seed product of its kind on the market today.
  • Carries a patented and proprietary nutritional package on each seed.
  • Time proven - field-tested - similar technologies proven in agriculture.
  • Applied as a pre-treatment on all premium, professional seed offered by MyTurfandGarden.com.

groSMART Seed -Performance Based on Science

  • groSMART™ seed is scientifically designed for rapid establishment and long-lasting color and growth.
  • Each seed is pre-treated with a unique blend of macro and micro-nutrients.
  • Carries on-board surfactants, natural growth promoting agents, microbes, humic, fulvic and amino acids to promote unparalleled performance.

groSMART Seed - Why It Works

  • Dramatically increases the water holding capacity of the seed and soil.
    • Surfactants and wetting agents are used as to significantly aiding in water conservation.
    • Establishes best-in-class germination rates.
  • Carries a complete load of Nitrogen, Phosphorous, and Potassium on each seed.
    • The water-soluble phosphorous makes the nutrients readily available for soil and plant uptake.
    • Phosphorous is needed for germination and root development.
    • The soluble nitrogen provides quick uptake to elongate roots and shoots, most needed when the plant is young.
    • Potassium builds cell wall strength. 
    • Cell wall strength is critical during the early stages of plant growth.
  • Organic proteins & mycorrhizae work in unison to feed soil and maintain moisture throughout soil profile.
  • The proteins and growth promoting agents drive roots into soil faster and stronger.

groSMART Seed - Reviews

Reviews from the Pro's

"groSMART™ seed is the fastest establishing seed. Even with less fertilizer. Results are an understatement."
- Professional Sports Turf Manager, Charlottesville, VA
"groSMART™ seed produced the fastest establishment I've ever seen. I reduced my starter fertilizer by 25%"
- Professional Lawn Care, Mid-Atlantic United States
"With reduced fertilizer, I still improved germination rates. Not to mention the best turf color and vigor."

- Certified Golf Course Superintendent, Maryland


 

 

Go Green Initiative

  • Green Industry = Go Green = The Green Industry
  • Yet, in the "Green Industry," what it means to “Go Green” is well-defined and its implication for performance clearly established.  For all of us at  MyTurfandGarden.com and The Turf and Garden Store Going Green has definite implications for how we conduct ourselves.  For us being Green means:

Stewardship as a Cornerstone

  • MyTurfandGarden is proud to be a leader in protecting the environment while at the same time assisting our customers care for and maintain their Outdoor Creation.
  • MyTurfandGarden is committed to developing a customer accessible platform for education and raising awareness based on the science in the Green industry.

Giving Back to the Industry

  • Raising tens of thousands of dollars for local, state and regional associations to combat legislation that isn't based on fact, yet instead based on emotionally based positions.
  • Lobbying efforts presenting why our industry can not only protect the environment but also enhance it.

Putting the Green Initiative Into Practice

  • MyTurfandGarden has a wide variety of certified "green solutions" enabling equal successes when compared to traditional products. 
  • Our initiatives include but are not limited to:
    • Zero Phosphorous Campaign
    • EarthWorks Replenish fertilizers
    • organicsPLUS fertilizers
    • OMRI Certified Pesticides, Fertilizers and Soil Amendments
    • Focus on Controlled Release Fertilizer acting to require less applications equating to less nutrient leaching and runoff.
    • Certified Nutrient Management Planners on staff.

Green Products

  • groSMART™ Seed
    • Revolutionary seed technology that allows for less fertilizer and less water at time of seeding application.  
    • groSMART™ seed is pretreated with proteins, fertilizer, organic mycorrhizae, surfactants and much more. 
    • This unique, patented technology provides fertilizer and organic nutrition where the seed needs it, while holding water in place for maximum germination. 
    • Accompanied with the best seed varieties tested by Universities, groSMART™ seed is the most drought, diseases, and traffic tolerant seed blends in both the professional and consumer markets. 
  • EarthWorks Replenish Fertilizers
    • It's not simply organic. The Earthworks solution provides calcium carbon and micro-nutrients placing focus on Soil First.
    • Soils First incorporates a carbon based fertility program via the use of high quality EarthWorks products.
    • Enables significant reduction in fertilizer inputs, water requirements and pesticide usage. The Number 1 organic fertilizer used by professionals!
  • organicsPLUS
    • Proprietary family of organic fertilizers. 
    • OrganicsPLUS embraces the science of agronomics yet also the science of the environment. 
    • OrganicsPLUS contains a minimum of 50% organics, micronutrients and XRT slow release fertilizer.
    • Results in fewer applications yet offer great turf response.
    • OrganicsPLUS can feed up to 12 weeks.
  • XCU Technology
    • Improved technology for the turf and horticulture market.
    • XCU offers a consistent 10 week release of nitrogen.
    • Uses an innovative polymer resin to provide a temperature-dependent nutrient release.
    • As temperatures warm, urea nitrogen is released at a consistent rate to match the nutrient demand of the turf. 
    • After complete release, the polymer decomposes into naturally occurring compounds.
  • Solu-Cal
    • Impregnated with 2% PHCA to significantly increase nutrient availability and efficiency while decreasing use rates. 
    • Enables quick change and optimization of soil pH as a major factor in nutrient availability, microbial activity, soil structure and overall vigor.
    • Maintains the correct soil pH allowing for the most efficient use of applied and soil stored nutrients.